Living so close to Italy and France, one might wonder why I would drink wine from anywhere else. One reason: I live in a country which has a thriving wine production industry. Even though their exportation appears limited to “close to home”, I have been frequently delighted and surprised by my experiences. So this year, I am on a mission to explore the Swiss Wine community in more depth and practice pairing my discoveries with my culinary experiments.
In November, I had the good fortune to be invited on a wine tasting excursion in La Sarraz, Vaud, my first ever in Switzerland, where I was introduced to Phusis. The “dégustaion” was different than my California experiences in that we were welcomed to the home of the wine maker! Guests gathered around wooden tables and benches in the cozy salon of a restored farmhouse. The weather was cool and cloudy, but the mood inside was warm and welcoming.
Winemaker, Steve Bettschen, moved among his guests pouring and explaining his wine making philosophy. Two of the wines from the 2011 tasting list were particularly interesting to me:
- Phusis 4.4 Rouge – Sensine – 2010
- Phusis 3.2 Arvine – Sensine – Vielle Vigne -2009
Both of these beauties come from a small 26 acres vineyard in Sensine (Conthey, Valais) not far from Sion at an elevation of approximately 560-600meters . The Petite Arvine old vines, planted in 1955, comprise a majority of this vineyard. The rest is a mix of Humagne Rouge, Gamay, Pinot Noir and Chasselas (Fendant) all planted between 1980 and 2000. Wine lover though I may be, I am not a connoisseur. Nevertheless, I was immediately captivated by the Arvine. The winemaker’s notes** describe this golden sweetheart as follows:
- Color/Appearance: pale yellow with green reflection.
- Nose: Evokes the Orient with with notes of sandalwood, orange, spiced bread and nougat; almond paste and vanilla bourbon
- Mouth: Soft and full-bodied followed by an evolution large and generous, but dry ( no residual sugar). The finish is marked by the intense notion of minerals. A wine concentrated and sensual.
The Phusis 3.2 Arvine remained at the top of my list throughout the tasting. When I arrived at the Phusis 4.4 Rouge, I was equally enamored: first by its appearance and then by its bouquet … This royal ruby bares the following winemaker’s notes**
- Color/Appearance: Beautiful dark cherry
- Nose: A little reserved, at first, the bouquet opens to dark ripe berries, graphite, spices and oak.
- Mouth: Delicate at first taste, but evolves in texture and intensity. The tannins and minerals encourage the wine to be stored for several months before tasting (August 2011).
Steve Bettschen provides food paring recommendations for each of these wines. Risotto with white truffles is highlighted as a compliment to the Arvine and a guinea-fowl or grilled duck with the Red. Whereas I appreciate “pairing notes”, I like to play with flavors. My first experiment led me to create the following ensemble: (The recipes provided at the end for your enjoyment):
- Phusis 3.2 Arvine with Butternut Squash Risotto
- Phusis 4.4 Rouge with a Carrot-Fennel Soup
The Arvine went wonderfully with the Risotto, a near perfect pairing However, one might imagine that a Carrot-Fennel soup would wilt under the bold fruit and tannins of the Phusis Rouge, but not so. The rich vegetable base and crème fraîche provided an earthy, rich flavor. The levity, provided by the hint of lime and fennel, aroused and cleansed the palate accentuating the complexity of the wine with each sip.
I have enjoyed both of these wines on several occasions and each time I have been as pleased as the time before it. I look forward to seeing how Phusis evolves and invite you to contact Steve Bettschen at Phusis to learn more about future “dégustation” and to give these wines a try.
** Translated to the best of my ability from the eloquent descriptions provided in French by Steve Bettschen
Carrot Lime and Fennel Soup
Serves | 4-6 |
Prep time | 20 minutes |
Cook time | 2 hours |
Total time | 2 hours, 20 minutes |
Dietary | Vegan |
Meal type | Lunch, Main Dish, Soup, Starter |
Misc | Serve Hot |
Ingredients
- 5 Large Carrots
- Medium Knob Celery
- l water
- pinch salt
- 1/4 bulb Fennel
- drop Crème Fraîche (Optional)
- 2 tablespoons Olive Oil
- 1 Large Yellow Onion (Quartered)
- 2 Medium Leeks ( Whites Only) (Chopped Large)
- 1 Lime
- drop Goat Cheese (Optional)
Directions
Preparation | |
Step 1 | Chop into large chunks: carrots, celery, fennel, onion and leek and place in large pot Add olive oil and salt, stir to light coat. Over medium heat, sauté the ingredients until onions and leeks begin to sweat |
Cook | |
Step 2 | Slowly add approximately 3L of water Simmer until water is reduced by 1/2 and/or the broth flavor is concentrated to your tastes. Using a hand blender, puree the ingredients in the the pot To achieve a smoother and lighter textured soup, pour the soup through a strainer into another bowl or pot. Discard the puree or set aside to add some back to the strained mixture for additional texture, if you wish Place the strained soup back on the stove and re-heat adding salt and lime juice to taste. |
Serving | |
Step 3 | Pour soup into shallow soup bowls Sprinkle with fennel sprigs. Optional: Dollop of creme fraîche or goat cheese |
Recommendations
Quantity and Balance Notes for 3L pot:
I recommend you play with the balance of vegetables. I really like carrots so I use more carrots than any other ingredient. Depending on the size of the celeri knoll, lets imagine a softball. I will use 1/4 to a half. I only want a hint of celery to lighten the flavor but not overpower the carrots. IOne large white onion and two leeks, whites only, work well. However, I play with this depending on who will be dining. I don't always add fennel bulb but a bit adds a nice flavor.
Reduction:
I usually let the soup simmer for 2hours adding water if too much liquid has evaporated and the broth is still not as concentrated as I like.
Garnish:
The creme fraîche is a nice touch as can a bit of goat cheese, but if you are a vegan or dairy adverse, skip this part.
Butternut Squash Risotto
Serves | 4-6 |
Prep time | 20 minutes |
Cook time | 40 minutes |
Total time | 1 hour |
Dietary | Vegan, Vegetarian |
Meal type | Main Dish |
Misc | Serve Hot |
Website | Simply Receipes |
Ingredients
- 1500ml unsalted vegetable broth
- 70g unsalted butter
- 1 Small yellow onion
- 16oz butternut squash (peeled and diced)
- 16oz arborio rice
- 8oz dry white wine
- 8oz parmesan cheese (grated)
- crème fraiche ((optional))
- fresh basil or chives
Directions
Step 1 | Heat vegetable broth in medium size pan. Peel and chop the butternut squash and set aside Chop Onion |
Step 2 | Melt butter in large saucepan and sauteed chopped onion until translucent |
Step 3 | Add rice and stir until the grains are translucent and a white "dot" in the grain is visible |
Step 4 | Add squash and wine and stir until liquid is nearly evaporated |
Step 5 | Add a couple ladles of vegetable broth, stirring until absorbed. Repeat until the risotto reaches a consistency and creamy texture desired |
OPTIONAL | |
Step 6 | In the last minutes of cooking, add the parmesan cheese and additional dollop of butter and chives before serving |
SERVING | |
Step 7 | Plate risotto on pre-heated plates or shallow pasta bowl If desired, finish with a sprinkling of parmesan, dollop or crème fraîche and chives (or basil). |
Recommendations
The natural creamy texture of this risotto is very tasty without incorporating the cheese or additional butter in the last minutes of cooking. Leaving these items and the crème fraîche as optional makes this dish suitable for vegans and vegetarians at the same table.